Tuesday, 11 September 2007

el día más importante en la historia de Chile

Today, September 11th, is the most important day in the history of Chile.

It has nothing to do with the events of September 11, 2001. No; this story is even older. It all begins in September of 1970. September is an important month in Chile. The winter gives way to spring. Flowers bloom, and birdsong returns again to Santiago. Painful memories are also brought out to air in the stronger sunshine which makes the days longer.

In September of 1970, Chileans elected Salvador Allende as their president. He was a socialist; the first socialist ever to be democratically-elected as president of any country. Many people, the United States' government included, saw this election as unacceptable. From the first day on which Allende took office, plans were already being made to oust him.

That ousting finally occurred on September 11, 1973, in the form of a coup d'etat. The Chilean armed forces, led by Army Gen. Augosto Pinochet, stormed La Moneda (presidential offices) and declared a military dictatorship. Allende committed suicide inside his office.

The military dictatorship lasted until 1990. Thousands of people were tortured, "disappeared", and killed in an attempt to destroy the opposition. Human rights abuses were rampant.

Pinochet died last December, having never been brought to trial for the crimes against humanity his government oversaw. His supporters (and they are numerous here), see him as a savior of their country. They say that without Pinochet, the Chilean economy would be nothing compared to what it is today.

Those who despise him continue to seek comfort and healing. Many still have family members who are missing. They only have their grief left, and find it hard to find closure.

An eerie silence has fallen over Santiago tonight. It is dangerous to be on the streets, especially in outlying neighborhoods where protests are being held. From my bedroom, the nighttime vista is different. Areas of the city that are usually specks of light reaching towards the horizon are dark; the electricity having been cut. The air outside smells faintly of burning tires and tear gas. The lights here have flickered on and off a few times, but are still on.

Morning will come, and all will be normal again. But Chile will still have skeletons in its closet.